After the patchwork embroidered Niki dress from Gabriela Hearst’s spring 2025 collection made its cameo in The Devil Wears Prada 2, there was a run on them on her e-commerce site. Now, the $7,900 number—Hearst never puts her clothes and accessories on sale—is available only by pre-order. Some 40 artisans work on each one, according to the sales copy.
Hearst’s new collection for resort is full of similarly labor intensive pieces. The lookbook opens with a long lace slip dress—a signature silhouette—only the lace is laser-cut suede. The lace slip dresses that follow are made from Sea Island cotton or a more substantial silk wool knit. Still another with the look of precious table linens is elaborately hand-crocheted. Josh Tafoya, the New Mexico designer and former LVMH Prize finalist, used deadstock yarns from Hearst’s stockpile to create the woven panels on a double-face cashmere coat. His designs also appear as elbow patches on sweaters and as insets on two different styles of cowboy boots.
The flip side of all that handwork is Hearst’s tailoring, where materials are shared across the women’s and men’s range. Pay special attention to the botanical dyed corduroy, which has a remarkably supple hand, and take note of sturdy his-and-hers raincoats which have been hand-painted for a watercolor-like effect. The scalloped side seams of flared trousers are split near the bottom—a side view reveals a surprise inset of godet pleated striped fabric. The little lace bralettes and briefs designed to wear underneath the suiting are pretty enough to go solo. Here’s betting one of her guy clients requests a matching tank.